Project Arise

Archive for July, 2011

Replacing your own car door window is not that difficult. You will need a few tools and the new parts but the work is not complicated if you have patience.

The first step is to remove the upholstery on the inside of the door. Most handles and armrests are screwed into place and need to be removed.

After the door handles and armrest are removed the next step is to remove the bottom of the door panel. There are special tools for this but most people use a screwdriver. Pry gently along the edge of the panel until the fasteners pop out. The door panel fasteners are shaped a bit like a Christmas tree with the base attached to the door. These fasteners are placed about every three or four inches.

Once the panel is off the door clean the window track and guide. Remove the old window seat and any other parts of the old window. Looking at the new window somewhere along the rear edge near the top there is typically a small hole drilled through the glass. The purpose of this hole is to put a small plastic piece that snaps into the hole. The plastic piece rides in a track at the back of the window opening, which keeps the window straight in the door. Some models require this to be installed before putting the window in. If all else fails, tilt the glass and snap the plastic piece into place after pushing the glass in before tightening it all down. Slide the new window glass in carefully. Remember when handling glass, even a tap on the edge can break it.

Once the new window glass is attached to the window rail, check the operation of the window before putting the door back together. To replace the door panel make sure to line up all of the fasteners before attaching any of them. Tap the back of each fastener through the panel with the butt end of your screwdriver. If the fasteners were not damaged during removal, they should simply pop back into place. Reattach the door handle and armrest. Hopefully, these simple steps have aided you in replacing your car window.

Although often providing an additional amount of safety to drivers who otherwise would drift into oncoming traffic or fall off the road from a significant height, guardrails can also be dangerous. As with many engineering features, if a guardrail plays a role in an accident that was not the reason for which that rail was built, the result can be devastating to the driver and passengers in that vehicle.

One of the major concerns many engineers have with concrete or tough steel guardrails, which aim to protect fast-moving, high-density traffic areas, is that a vehicle will actually bounce back into the flow of traffic following a collision. Although guardrails can help to slow the post-collision travel of a vehicle, if the force off of the collision is great enough and the vehicle is light enough, that car or motorcycle may end up in the path of nearby vehicles.

In addition to bounce-back, guardrails that provide a rising wedge at the rail’s ends run a rare risk of causing a vehicle to become airborne following a traffic incident. Although this is a less common accident, as the accident would require a vehicle to specifically strike the end of the guardrail, and not the main body, the ensuing damages can be extreme. Seeing as cars were made to remain on the ground, the damage to wheels, the suspension, and the overall lack of safety systems for falling can provide truly troublesome.

The alternative to these rails, which may cause issues in their own right, is to use a type and specially engineered guardrail for each roadway situation. This means that a standard sort of material or shape may be used, but that the speed, conditions, and form of a road must be taken into consideration when adding a guardrail.

For more information regarding negligence in road engineering, contact a car accident attorney.

We have all had the experience of going to auto parts stores and being incredibly frustrated by the lack of variety for our particular model of car – or being told that the store just doesn’t carry that part at all! And for those of us who are looking for International Scout Parts, the search at auto parts stores is like hitting a stone wall. Fortunately, there is an alternative to that frustration – you can find parts for your Scout online!

Just sit down at your computer, get comfortable, put on some good off-road music and type the words International Scout Parts into your web browser’s search engine and hit Enter. The rest is just a matter of sorting through the more than 250,000 websites that deal with International Scout parts. You can even find parts on some of the online auction sites, and you can get often get really good prices that way.

Many Scout enthusiasts like to customize their vehicles and there are websites that will help you to totally trick out your Scout with such details as original International Harvester logo on the ignition key or even your key ring. Not only that, but you can purchase replicas of Scout emblems and decals for your shift knob.

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Just as everything we do in life has different levels of mastery, so it is the same for model car kits. There are a total of five skill levels. Although, two of them can somewhat fit into one snug skilled level. These levels are determined by the detail that is applied to the models that you are trying to create. Read on to find which skilled level you are at!

Defining the First Level

The first level is for beginners. Most beginners have to stay at this level for about a month or two, depending on how many models you create. With these models, they are already painted for you. So, there’s no need to get yourself dirty. The basic idea of these models is learning how things go together. Most of these, you just sort of snap the pieces into place. If you were anything like how I was when I began, you just thought one piece could fit anywhere. You knew the car had a front and a back, and four wheels. They use the method of peeling the decals and placing them on, rather than the ones where you have to use water. According to most websites, these kits are for young ones, or for those who haven’t done models in a while.

Level Two Models

The second level is different in a few ways. This level is recommended for those over the age of ten. Most of them come as plain white pieces; so, on this level; you do begin to start painting. Here, they tell you how many parts are in the box, and this adds more detail. This is also the level where glue will be needed. There are also what are called waterslide decals, which are more life-like.

Level Three

Level three is about as hard as levels four and five. There are more versions of the model than just the ones that the company illustrates, so don’t be alarmed if there are more parts in the box than what the instructions tell you about. Another thing they add to these kits is color schemes. You mix colors and so forth beginning in this level. Don’t attempt this skill if you are not familiar with the basics, because let’s face it, you’re only wasting your money.

The Top Levels

Levels four and five are put together. This is the level that you begin tinkering with the engine and putting details on the inside as well. The higher the level you go, the more work you’ll be putting into it. All of the levels have some sort of age limit. Yet, this is just what they think is appropriate to begin using the kit. It takes into account the fumes from the glue, paint etc., the skill involved in each level, and so on. What it all boils down to though is how comfortable you feel with what you are doing. Some people get it really easily, so they fly by skill levels one and two; while some remain on level one just to be sure they have the basics down pat before they move into greater detail. Just find what level you feel you are ready to handle. Don’t think too big.

Here in the southern U.S., we residents are used to a bug population that can only make an anteater smack his lips. From about early April to the first frost, bugs outnumber people about 1000 to 1. Some would say 1 million to 1. Quite frankly, bugs are everywhere: in the yard, in the house, on your car, etc. Products containing DEET help, but they can do nothing to protect your car. Think I am exaggerating? Just drive down any southern back road at dusk and see how long it takes for your windshield and hood to be splattered with bug juice. It can get so bad that no amount of windshield washer fluid can keep up with it all. What to do? Well, if you are like many motorists you get some protection for your car. No, I am not saying to spray it with a can of OFF! or drive around with a car cover on it. Instead, there are two must have accessories that can and will make a difference. You’ll have to read on to find out just what I am talking about.

Car bras – Some call them hood protectors while others call them car bras. Regardless, this particular accessory provides the greatest protection for the front end of most any passenger vehicle. Customized for your vehicle, car bras slip over the front end, covering the grille and the adjoining section of the hood. Some car bras are designed to extend further up the hood almost to the windshield. Some consist of two part sections that permit motorists to access the hood without taking off the bra, while others are a one piece accessory that must be removed before opening the hood. Both styles are effective in deflecting bugs from the grille and can protect a portion of the hood.

Bug deflectors – Also called bug shields, bug deflectors function chiefly to guard your hood and windshield from bug debris. Furthermore, some bug deflectors can repel other small objects including stones kicked up from the road which can then break your windshield. A bug deflector is installed at the top part of your grille at the point where the grille meets the front part of your vehicle’s hood. Like car bras, bug deflectors are sized for the particular brand and model you own, though there are some models that can be custom cut and sized by consumers too. Typically, a heavy-duty double adhesive tape fastens the deflector in place, as a result no drilling is required.

Usually, drivers put in one or the other accessory on their vehicles and not both as a bug deflector must adhere to the car itself; it cannot stay in place if fastened to part of the bra. However, some bras are designed with a lip installed that sits across the hood of your vehicle, acting as a mini bug deflector all of its own.

So, if you live in the South or you are planning a trip down here, protect your vehicle before you leave your home. A car bra or a bug shield will do a very good job in reducing bug splatter and keep you from going through gallons of windshield washer fluid while protecting your car’s finish.